Sailing the Lake Michigan shoreline

Sunday, March 25, 2007

By Kim Schneider

PENTWATER -- The flapping of our 36-foot-high sails is competing with the more rhythmic sloshing of waves against the side of our boat. So we forget about catching a big gust and concentrate instead on what the day's calm, clear weather has given us: a perfect sunset.

For $30 apiece, my husband and I have booked what's turned out to be a private charter sail with Captain Russ Murphy on his 30-foot Pearson sailboat, the Irish Wake. A morning or afternoon sail's generally better for an adrenaline rush, Captain Russ had correctly warned. But not for romance.

There's something about being on the water, heading toward the horizon, that makes you feel as if you could perhaps actually reach the sunset. And while Murphy likes a thrilling sail as much as any boat lover, he does have a motor as well as back-up options aplenty.

There's the view of Pentwater's harbor and the long stretch of sugar white sand at Mears State Park, for one. And in a pinch, the Irish storytelling genes and seize-the-day philosophy kick in.

From the Web site, we'd already picked up a bit of Murphy's motivation for retiring early to share a passion for boating.

"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do," reads one quote by Mark Twain. "So sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the wind in your sails. Do it now. Why? Well just because ..."

And whether it's Twain's philosophy catching on, or a more general trend toward simplicity, more travelers are taking to the "rent-don't-buy" mode of yachting, Murphy says. And it's no wonder.

All we had to do to prepare for our evening sail was head to a local gourmet grocery to pack a picnic before meeting Murphy in the Snug Harbor Marina. And even that was optional.

"The fridge is stocked, and the cabin's yours," he says as he helps us aboard. "Help yourself to whatever you need."

On the Irish Wake, you can do the steering -- but only if you want to. Raise the sails, or sit back on polished teak and mahogany furnishings and pretend this all belongs to you. Captain Russ takes care of trickier maneuvers, or he can set the steering on auto pilot.

Our most pressing assignment of the evening related to sunset viewing itself.

"Have you heard of the green flash?" Murphy asks. "I'm gonna figure out if it's real."

He'd been hearing a lot lately about the green flash supposedly seen just as the sun slips behind the horizon. And he promised his wife he'd solve the mystery.

So we stare intently as the sky turns from sunny gold to peach and then deeper reds, the water from pure sea green to an inky blue black. As the sun sinks closer to the horizon, it hits a thin line of clouds that distorts its shape. First, it resembles a glowing peach top hat, then it sets squishy flat like an over-easy egg or a flying saucer landing on the lake.

The only flash we see is a white blur, much like you experience when a flashbulb goes off in your face -- no mystery since we'd been staring straight into the sun. No problem.

The "green flash" is reportedly seen most often by those who watch a lot of sunsets -- and Captain Russ plans to have many more chances. Come to think of it, we noted, we'd be free to help the following night.

Make it a weekend:

Sail: Irish Wake offers a 90-minute sail, four times a day (10:15 a.m., 12:15 p.m., 4 p.m., 8 p.m.), for $30 adults, $25 seniors, $15 children (6 and up) or free for active military personnel. Cruises run May 20-mid-October, for up to six people per sail. Call (231) 629-0739 to reserve your spot. www.irishwakeenterprises.com.

Stay: The "Sunset Suite" at the historic Nickerson Inn perfectly suits the weekend's theme; a hand-carved sailboat sits perfectly over a gas log fireplace, and your balcony offers a sunset view of Lake Michigan and nearby dunes. www.nickersoninn.com.

Dine: Road food experts Jane and Michael Stern have named Bortell's Fisheries in nearby Ludington one of America's Top 10 seafood shacks, and we don't wonder why. Specialties include wood-smoked fish, but you can't beat the locally famous crab cakes or a fish fry to go; you pick your fresh fish from dozens of varieties. (231) 843-3337.

Get around land: A tandem bicycle's harder than it looks but made easier by the 10-foot paved walkway that runs along the channel, all the way to sandy Mears State Park. Rent by the hour, half- or full day from Pentwater River Outfitters, 42 W. Second St., (231) 869-2999.

Find out more: www.pentwater.org.



Sailing the Lake Michigan shoreline Sunday, March 25, 2007 By Kim Schneider PENTWATER -- The flapping of our 36-foot-high sails is competing with the more rhythmic sloshing of waves against the side of our boat. So we forget about catching a big gust and concentrate instead on what the day's calm, clear weather has given us: a perfect sunset. For $30 apiece, my husband and I have booked what's turned out to be a private charter sail with Captain Russ Murphy on his 30-foot Pearson sailboat, the Irish Wake. A morning or afternoon sail's generally better for an adrenaline rush, Captain Russ had correctly warned. But not for romance. There's something about being on the water, heading toward the horizon, that makes you feel as if you could perhaps actually reach the sunset. And while Murphy likes a thrilling sail as much as any boat lover, he does have a motor as well as back-up options aplenty. There's the view of Pentwater's harbor and the long stretch of sugar white sand at Mears State Park, for one. And in a pinch, the Irish storytelling genes and seize-the-day philosophy kick in. From the Web site, we'd already picked up a bit of Murphy's motivation for retiring early to share a passion for boating. "Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do," reads one quote by Mark Twain. "So sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the wind in your sails. Do it now. Why? Well just because ..." And whether it's Twain's philosophy catching on, or a more general trend toward simplicity, more travelers are taking to the "rent-don't-buy" mode of yachting, Murphy says. And it's no wonder. All we had to do to prepare for our evening sail was head to a local gourmet grocery to pack a picnic before meeting Murphy in the Snug Harbor Marina. And even that was optional. "The fridge is stocked, and the cabin's yours," he says as he helps us aboard. "Help yourself to whatever you need." On the Irish Wake, you can do the steering -- but only if you want to. Raise the sails, or sit back on polished teak and mahogany furnishings and pretend this all belongs to you. Captain Russ takes care of trickier maneuvers, or he can set the steering on auto pilot. Our most pressing assignment of the evening related to sunset viewing itself. "Have you heard of the green flash?" Murphy asks. "I'm gonna figure out if it's real." He'd been hearing a lot lately about the green flash supposedly seen just as the sun slips behind the horizon. And he promised his wife he'd solve the mystery. So we stare intently as the sky turns from sunny gold to peach and then deeper reds, the water from pure sea green to an inky blue black. As the sun sinks closer to the horizon, it hits a thin line of clouds that distorts its shape. First, it resembles a glowing peach top hat, then it sets squishy flat like an over-easy egg or a flying saucer landing on the lake. The only flash we see is a white blur, much like you experience when a flashbulb goes off in your face -- no mystery since we'd been staring straight into the sun. No problem. The "green flash" is reportedly seen most often by those who watch a lot of sunsets -- and Captain Russ plans to have many more chances. Come to think of it, we noted, we'd be free to help the following night. Make it a weekend: Sail: Irish Wake offers a 90-minute sail, four times a day (10:15 a.m., 12:15 p.m., 4 p.m., 8 p.m.), for $30 adults, $25 seniors, $15 children (6 and up) or free for active military personnel. Cruises run May 20-mid-October, for up to six people per sail. Call (231) 629-0739 to reserve your spot. www.irishwakeenterprises.com. Stay: The "Sunset Suite" at the historic Nickerson Inn perfectly suits the weekend's theme; a hand-carved sailboat sits perfectly over a gas log fireplace, and your balcony offers a sunset view of Lake Michigan and nearby dunes. www.nickersoninn.com. Dine: Road food experts Jane and Michael Stern have named Bortell's Fisheries in nearby Ludington one of America's Top 10 seafood shacks, and we don't wonder why. Specialties include wood-smoked fish, but you can't beat the locally famous crab cakes or a fish fry to go; you pick your fresh fish from dozens of varieties. (231) 843-3337. Get around land: A tandem bicycle's harder than it looks but made easier by the 10-foot paved walkway that runs along the channel, all the way to sandy Mears State Park. Rent by the hour, half- or full day from Pentwater River Outfitters, 42 W. Second St., (231) 869-2999. Find out more: www.pentwater.org. Š2007 Booth Newspapers Š 2007 Michigan Live. All Rights Reserved.